Living la vida Rioja! Without Ricky Martin, but with a thirst for knowledge, we go on a long-distance glass trip to Spain. The Rioja region is reinventing itself and has exciting bottle dates in its shopping basket, not only for connoisseurs but also for beginners. Not only from the well-known red wines, white flirts are also tempting. In this wine shopping list, I present some personal matches, from beginner to advanced fodder – and information about the Spanish wine-growing region.
I’ve been to Spain before, but the Rioja region and I hadn’t been on a date yet. Of course, I was familiar with the wines, but I hadn’t yet made contact, so it was high time to start a trip by the glass to the famous Spanish wine region. A region that is reinventing itself without losing sight of its traditional culture. But it is also breaking new ground, with young winemakers taking over and tweaking the taste dress code. I brought a small selection of Rioja wines into my tasting arena and did what every winemaker I ask how I can learn more about wine actually recommends: tasted it. But first, a few facts about the wine-growing region, because it’s worth taking a look behind the scenes to get an insight into the wines.
The growing area
In a nutshell: the Rioja DOCa has three areas, each with its own wine-growing characteristics – Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental (called Rioja Baja until 2018). The geographical conditions have helped to create a natural region that is perfectly delimited and distinguishable from its surroundings. The 65,326 hectares of vineyards protected by the designation of origin are divided between Rioja Alta (27,347 ha), Rioja Oriental (24,590 ha) and Rioja Alavesa (13,389 ha).
One hundred kilometers separate the westernmost town, Haro, from the easternmost, Alfaro. The vineyards lie in a valley with a maximum width of around 40 kilometers and rise in stepped terraces up to 700 meters in altitude. A total of 144 municipalities belong to the DOCa (118 in La Rioja, 18 in Álava and 8 in Navarra), as “their soils are suitable for growing grapes of the required quality”. The entire region benefits from the meeting of two contrasting climatic zones (Atlantic and Mediterranean) with mild temperatures and an annual rainfall of just over 400 liters per square meter – ideal conditions for viticulture.
Handcrafted and artisanal: Rioja wines have more history than just a label.
The soils of Rioja are also very suitable for quality viticulture, as they have a balanced structure of sand, loam and clay, are slightly alkaline and low in nutrients and have moderate amounts of water in summer. Overall, the wine region is characterized by diverse soils (calcareous clay, ferruginous clay and alluvial soil are the three main ones) and microclimates (orientation of the vineyard, protection from the wind, etc.), which give the wines unique characteristics. Depending on the use of different grape varieties and cultivation methods, this allows for a wide range of wines with differentiated personalities within a perfectly recognizable common identity.
The grape varieties
There are currently 14 grape varieties permitted in Rioja. For red wines, these are Tempranillo, Garnacha tinta, Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana tinta. The white grape varieties are Viura, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca, Turruntés, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. Are you hearing many of these for the first time? No problem. That makes me all the more curious to find out what they taste like.
Maturation
One of the distinguishing features of Rioja wines is their great ageing potential – a characteristic that only great wines possess. Through an appropriate ageing process, in the course of which oak plays a decisive role, the wine undergoes a beneficial development that highlights its value and gives it new aromatic and taste characteristics.
Rioja wines have the elegance, originality and character of great wines – something that can only be achieved when the grape varieties, terroir and winemaking techniques have been fused over time. Given the viticultural diversity of the region, wineries have traditionally blended grapes and wines from different grape varieties, vineyards and communities in order to find the complementary characteristics that bring out their respective qualities to perfection in the final product.
Dies ist zweifellos der bekannteste Rioja-Typ, wenngleich die Kellereien eine immer größere Bandbreite an Stilen anbieten – mit Weinen von großer Konzentration und ausdrucksstarker Frucht aus bestimmten, einzelnen Weinbergsparzellen.
Vines like these could tell a lot of stories. If they don’t speak fluent Rioja, who will?
The wine categories
Depending on the traditional ageing process, Rioja wine can be divided into four categories, which can be distinguished by the four different back labels. The Control Board assigns numbered labels to wines that meet its quality and typicity requirements:
Generic
This category guarantees the origin and vintage of the wine. These are usually first or second year wines that retain their original freshness and fruitiness. This category can also include other wines that do not fit into the Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva categories because they have undergone a maturation process that is not certified by the Control Board.
Crianzas
Crianzas are wines that are at least in their third year after being stored in oak barrels for at least one year. For white wines, the minimum ageing period in the barrel is six months.
Reserva
These are carefully selected wines with a minimum ageing period of three years, split between oak barrel and bottle. At least one year of this must be spent in the barrel, followed and supplemented by at least six months of ageing in the bottle. For white wines, the minimum ageing period is two years, of which at least six months must be in the barrel.
Gran Reserva
These are carefully selected wines with a minimum ageing period of three years, split between oak barrel and bottle. At least one year of this must be spent in the barrel, followed and supplemented by at least six months of ageing in the bottle. For white wines, the minimum ageing period is two years, of which at least six months must be in the barrel.
With its diversity, Rioja conjures up plenty of sunshine in the glass for the wine-curious.
Rioja Wine: my discoveries in the test
Rioja Wine Tipp 1: Custero, Robert Olivan x Tentenublo
As timeless as denim: Tentenublo’s aim was to produce a classic Cosechero wine, just as the winegrowers and residents used to drink it in the pubs of their villages many decades ago.
Bunter Mix. The Custero is made from the following grape varieties: Garnacha, Tempranillo, Viura, Malvasía, Calagraño, Garnacha Gris, Graciano, Monastrell and Malvasía Riojana.
This Rioja wine rocks the glass. With the red wine Custero from Roberto Olivan (approx. 14.50 euros), you can learn primary school math, as the red fruit salad consists of the grape varieties Garnacha, Tempranillo, Viura, Malvasía, Calagraño, Garnacha Gris, Graciano, Monastrell and Malvasía Riojana. In May 2011, Roberto Olivan founded the wine project Tentenublo. The aim: to produce a classic Cosechero wine as it was many decades ago, just as the winegrowers and inhabitants used to drink it in the pubs of their villages. He succeeded, because the slightly chilled wine immediately evoked vibes in me, as if the winegrowers of King’s Landing in Game of Thrones had made something strong as a dragon. Rough, peppery and elegant on the nose, blackberry, raspberry, on the tongue like a silky, berry river with a pinch of chocolate, juicy with fine acidity – Tyrion Lannister would have had it delivered to his tower suite.
Custero, Robert Olivan x Tentenublo, Price: around 14,50 euros, for example via weine-feinkost.de
Rioja Wein-Tipp 2: Ortega Ezquerro Vino de Tudelilla Crianza
Ortega Ezquerro’s grapevine soundtrack comes around the corner with a bouncy elegance, silky-smooth and a good draw.
As cozy as a cotton blouson: Rioja can be as cozy as the Vino de Tudelilla Crianza here.
What does Rioja have to do with the color beige? I’ve had some contact with both, but still very little. That’s changing now – firstly because the relaxed bomber blouson from Colmar makes me autumn-ready, and secondly because I’m going on a short four-glass trip to the wine region that I really need to get to know better. The 2019 kicks things off Ortega Ezquerro Vino de Tudelilla Crianza for around 13 euros. The red wine, made from 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha, comes from the Rioja Baja growing region and the vines are over 70 years old. However, the soundtrack of the vines is anything but senior, but rather breezy and elegant, silky-smooth, with a good pull. The nose is tickled by aromas of red fruits and subtle spicy notes, while on the tongue it is above all: slightly chilled cherry juice with a pinch of dried fruit, which somehow has whisky vibes for me. Nice acidity, makes you want to delve deeper into Rioja in the glass.
Ortega Ezquerro Vino de Tudelilla Crianza, Price: around 13 euros, for example via weinladen.com
Rioja Wine Tipp 3: UKAN, Ukan Winery
Ukan is not a wine to be drunk thoughtlessly, but to be enjoyed and embarked on an adventure.
Roasted Rioja. Distinctive roasted aromas await in the glass at the finish of the Ukan.
Next stop Rioja, this time the Rioja Alavesa region. And what an adventure in a glass! UKAN Winery is the new project of the youngest generation of the Eguren family, a small winery that focuses on small quantities and the highest quality. The beats for this red Rioja soundtrack come from three old Tempranillo vineyards. First things first: Ukan (approx. 40 euros) is not a wine like the current 2.30 minute songs on Spotify, rather a long Pink Floyd piece as a modern reinterpretation. Not a wine to drink away thoughtlessly, but to get involved with and go on an adventure. It starts with deep berries and a rough nose, reminding me of whisky vibes. It then cruises over the tongue with a silky elegance, but always with such a cultivated roughness. A sea of cherries, redcurrants and stewed fruit to sink into, plus roasted aromas that are tuned like a Formula 1 car. Striking stuff for explorers.
UKAN, Ukan Winery, Price: around 40 euros, for example via iberowine.de
Rioja Wine Tipp 4: Rioja Roda Reserva
Four letters, one opinion. Beginners should try the Roda Rioja, it is a good starting wine for the wine journey.
The famous Rioja region is currently reinventing itself without forgetting its roots. The first insider tip is for lovers of dry humor. The Spanish winery Bodegas Roda is located in the heart of the famous Rioja region. It was founded in 1987 by Mario Rotllant and Carmen Daurella and named after their surnames. Outstanding quality was the aim of the two, which is continued today by head winemaker Agustín Santolaya. The resulting wines are ready to drink and at the same time very long-lived. Using traditional Rioja winemaking methods as well as sustainable, careful cultivation and reliance on old vines, the winery team achieves outstanding results. The grapes are closely monitored and regularly tasted on 21 plots before they are harvested by hand and processed with respect. The typical varieties include Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha.
Restrained appearance, but best tasting sample behavior.
The Reserva in the name of the Bodegas Roda stands for Champions League, and the red wine does indeed remind me of very elegant loafers. It smells of smoked cherry ham, cedar wood, lilac, violets and caramel, with a hint of BBQ notes coming through in between. All the aromas seem to be sewn into shape, very straight. You have to get used to the feeling of the long-lasting angularity on the back of the palate, but you will be rewarded with a real talking point!
Bodegas Rioja Reserve, Price: around 29 euros, via www.hawesko.de
Rioja Wine Tipp 5: Ansa Bodega 202
The label is infatuation, the contents are bursting with character. Those who appreciate this will have a lot of fun.
The Outfit by Bodegas relies on an elegant and creative dress code, which the winemakers also continue in the bottle. Ansa puts the class of the oldest vineyards (70+ years old, some centenary) in the glass, mainly located in the town of Elvillar. The red wine (with a ticket costing around 40 euros) is not mainstream television, but an exciting movie night that you should get involved with to understand the idea. But then you will be rewarded with real conversation material. The Tempranillo grapes from Rioja Alavesa, one of three growing areas in the protected region, are aged for 14 months in French oak barrels, which gives the wine its very dry humor. It smells fruity and you get the feeling that someone is having a barbecue nearby. Images of a relaxed but elegantly tailored linen suit and a terrace immediately come to mind.
Ansa Bodega 202 or: Winner in terms of materiality.
The attack is peppery, edgy and lays strikingly on the tongue. Like a catwalk of dark fruit, the connoisseur sits front row. Shortly after the first sip, redcurrants take center stage. Not mainstream, but that’s what makes (glass) travel so interesting.
Ansa Bodega 202, Price: around 42 euros, via www.bodega202.com
Rioja Wine Tipp 6: Quirus Rioja Alta (Tempranillo blanco)
This insider tip for white wine also feels at home in our slowly rising summer temperatures. White wine from Rioja? Yes, the red wine location also has some fine blanco checks for pleasure tours. Like the Quirus Rioja Alta from the Tempranillo Blanco grape variety from bodegas quiroga de pablo. The straw-yellow color with green reflections is the first flirtation.
A cozy white wine with exciting rough edges: the Quirus Rioja.
The Tempranillo Blanco, aged in stainless steel tanks, is not a wine that crosses the road in a gorilla posture and goes into the nose, it is a little more restrained. But that’s a good thing! Instead, aromas of melon, pineapple and lime are so finely woven together in a mineral suit that you really enjoy discovering them. Another friend of dry humor that you should share with curiosity. The ticket to indulgence is available for around 20 euros.
Quirus Rioja Alta Tempranillo blanco, Price: around 16 euros, more via www.bodegasquiroga.com
Rioja Wine Tipp 7: Cerrado del Castillo
Rioja Cerrado or in short – a nice piece of conversation material.
Spain safari. The Rioja Cerrado is as elegantly cut as its label, but also has plenty of temperament.
Why do we have royalty in our glass here? The wine is not only produced in old vineyards in the walled castle area, but also only in exceptional years when the harvest is at its peak. The Tempranillo vines are up to 40 years old, so there is a lot of history in the bottle. So here too: Give it time. Let it in. Smell, let it come, taste, wait again, taste again. Discover the aromas bit by bit. And the tour of discovery is very stylish. At the beginning, a spicy, deep dark carpet is rolled out, knitted from intense notes of red fruits. Don’t get bogged down, there is everything from cherry to redcurrant. There’s even a hint of chocolate. And the important thing is: it should taste good! This exceptional red wine lingers in the mouth for a long time, not a troublemaker, but someone who confidently knows how to express his character. And that’s what makes wine exciting, isn’t it?
Rioja Cerrado del Castillo, Price: around 44 euros, for example via www.riojawine.shop
Rioja Wine Tipp 8: Rioja La Pera (blanco)
Dress code: please drink. La Pera is a white wine that has etiquette.
We continue our journey by the glass through the Spanish wine region. As mentioned, it is famous for its characteristic red wines, but also has charmers in white jerseys in the team. After all, I sometimes have female visitors who share my wine quirk, so a relaxed white wine is a must. The white Tempranillo grape was only discovered in 1988 in the region around Murillo del Río Leza, and it tastes very special. However, La Pera Blanco Rioja from Hacienda El Ternero is not quite as wild as the label with a cycling ox and animal companion might suggest. Think of it more like an eastern salad with chinos and a summer shirt, which doesn’t really stand out on the nose at first. But at the first kiss of welcome, La Pera then brings out casually twirled aromas of apple, banana and citrus fruits that dance beautifully across the tongue. Just not a cheesy mating dance, but like someone who really feels it. It also reminds me of really nice apple-banana iced tea – but perfect for summer. And all for less than 10 euros.
Shades of White: The Rioja La Pera is simply a cool piece of stuff.
Fancy a casual, fun white wine that has a really unique but super charming label and is sure to make everyone curious? Then get on your bike!
Rioja La Pera, price: around 10 euros, available from www.wein-port.de
